An Ode to Odette - by Julien Royer, Singapore
I’m admittedly late to the party with my review of Odette in Singapore - but better late than never, right? Consistently ranked among the World’s 50 Best and Asia’s 50 Best, and proudly holding the coveted three Michelin stars, Odette has become a beacon of modern French fine dining in Singapore. But accolades aside, what truly sets this iconic establishment apart is the quiet magic that unfolds behind its doors - a masterclass in precision, grace, and flavour.
Image courtesy of Condé Nast
At the heart of Odette’s philosophy lies a deep commitment to authenticity, celebrating nature’s finest offerings in every dish. Chef Julien Royer draws inspiration from his French upbringing, where childhood days were spent foraging and cooking with seasonal produce from his family’s garden. The restaurant’s name, Odette, is a heartfelt homage to his grandmother, whose warmth, culinary wisdom, and emphasis on family helped shape his enduring love for food.
Firstly and most obviously, Odette is visually stunning - housed within the Singapore National Gallery, the dining room is bathed in natural light from grand glass windows and adorned with delicate coral-hued ceiling sculptures. Secondly, the front-of-house team is exceptionally experienced and genuinely dedicated to ensuring everything is executed perfectly. Now that’s some pedigree.
Adding a creative touch, Singaporean artist Dawn Ng’s works bring the space to life, transforming Odette’s raw ingredients into surreal and captivating elements. Her artistic vision is woven into every detail, including the show-stopping centrepiece in the main dining hall.
And so, without further ado, house lights down, quiet please, let’s delve into the evening.
After a glass or three of bubbles, the grignotages foretold the meal to come; deliciously delicate and it got the mouth watering for more. Warm laminated bread à la croissant with flavoured butter & tangy olive oil with some form of sourdough arrived, alongside this creamy mushroom tea thing, just incredible. And what a start this was, the bread was crispy and warm and tasted heavenly with that melting butter. Several plates of this were mandatory.
Our meal began with Marukyo uni and red Sicilian prawns, with a cloud of mussel and Daurikus caviar, served with theatrical flair tableside. So happy was I with the dollop of sturgeon roe that the plump, sea-briny mollusc almost escaped my attention. A crisp uni disc on a separate platter offered a textural counterpoint - a thoughtful combination that elevated the dish even further.
Scallop crudo came next. The scallop slices were silky smooth, the creamy horseradish-tinged sauce beneath bringing out the flavour of the shellfish. Salty bursts from the crème fraîche and dill complimented each mouthful well. The matching wine was a 2009 Saint-Joseph; deliciously honeyed, working well with the dish.
The “Langoustine Comme un Dumpling" was a very clever idea - leek fondue and vin jaune, with a generous rainfall of table-shaved Tuscany white truffle, satisfyingly full of flavour and painstakingly beautiful. The dish really danced on the tongue, leaving me excited for the mains.
Is there much more pleasing than Scottish blue lobster with sake beurre blanc? I'd say no. This was cooked in the water bath and sat on a bed of Kyoto miso, endive and that brilliant beurre blanc sauce. We made light work of this.
The pigeon, leg I think, was a glorious soft texture, with not a hint of the chewiness that can afflict certain game meat. It was seasoned with kampot pepper, and the Solliès Bourjasotte noire figs provided an earthy hit of autumn. This came with a fantastic wild garlic and pickled onion reduced jus that only the very best restaurants have the skill and energy to make. If pigeon and fig is the perfect winter dish (and I'm increasingly convinced it is) then it surely can not come in any more satisfying form than this - a riot of texture, colour and flavour. This was serviced with a pillowy bao bun.
The cheese course at Odette was mighty - an absurdly decadent trolley rolled out with every imaginable fromage, from silky, cream-laden Brillat-Savarin to a perfectly aged Comté d’Exception, nutty and crystalline. Each cheese was thoughtfully chosen for the platter, paired with housemade condiments and breads, elevating this course into a ceremony of indulgence. A must for any true cheese devotee.
There's not much not to like about the combination of sabacha, pecan and amaretto for the ‘grain de cafe’ dessert, and yet another supreme command of texture and technique made this something special. I particularly liked the pecan, which was whipped into a kind of light mousse.
Finally, journey's end. A flurry of douceurs descended the table. We'd had fully nine courses before these, and yet they still disappeared with relish and enthusiasm.
So what do you think? To return to an earlier point, running back through the Odette menu now I can't imagine the setting and state of mind had much to do with the fact we enjoyed ourselves so much; it was simply that presentation, ingredients, attention to detail and monumental effort had produced a dinner that stood apart from most that I’ve had in Asia Pacific.
No element of any dish felt superfluous; no flashy technique was overused or included merely to impress at the expense of flavour or sense. The cooking was never obscure or self-important - when it challenged, it did so with charm and surprise, never confusion. When unusual ingredients appeared, they elevated the dish with clear purpose, never added just to tick a box for sustainability.
Service was professional and deeply informed, but never stiff. The pacing of the meal was pitch-perfect: early dishes arrived swiftly, in tune with our eager appetites, before easing into a more relaxed rhythm as the evening unfolded.
I’m far from the first to rave about Odette, and I certainly won’t be the last. But I won’t diminish Chef Julien and the team’s achievement by tossing around the word "genius" - a term that's become meaningless from overuse. What Odette delivers is something more sincere: an open-hearted, exquisitely judged celebration of all that makes elevated French cuisine so enduringly special. Go, as soon as you possibly can.
Thank you to Julien Royer, Adam Wan and the rest of the incredible Odette team for your hospitality.
Address: 1 St Andrew's Rd, #01-04 National Gallery, Singapore 178957