The Waterhouse Project, by Gabriel Waterhouse
The phenomenon of supper clubs is continuing to thrive in London. Gabriel Waterhouse’s ‘The Waterhouse Project’ is all booked up and reservations can be made only a month in advance of the date. It seems Londoners are keen on this kind of set-up and, having now been to two of them, I can see why. The thrill of dining in a unique space and meeting new people is something a conventional restaurant can't deliver.
Recently moved to their new home on Mare Street after previously occupying a tile warehouse across the road, The Waterhouse Project has become one of London’s most talked about supper clubs. It is Gabriel’s first solo residency, after his time at Michelin Starred kitchen at Galvin La Chapelle, and with three-time Michelin Star winner, Herbert Berger at Innholders Hall. The move has come with outstanding reviews from both guests and critics alike. This has naturally resulted in the supper club becoming almost permanently sold out. I was kindly invited to revisit after their recent opening after lockdown.
Nibbles tray
To start, we had some delicious nibbles, including a beetroot crisp which I had during my last visit. The smell of sourdough fills the room, as it is freshly baked in ovens in front of all the diners. This was paired with an awesome whipped oak smoked butter and presented on a funky stone. Next, we were served a delightful burrata with parsley puree, toasted hazelnut and chive oil. This took me by surprise. There was an incredible depth of flavour to the chive oil, and the burrata looked innocent enough - but packed a refreshing punch. We scooped all the dregs on our plates hungrily.
Burrata, parsley puree, herb salad, toasted hazelnuts, chive oil and flowers
Next up, we had Brillat savarin French toast adorned with Italian truffle, honey and milk. This was a generous portion - I don't envy much the poor soul who had to plate these delicious morsels and not take a small bite. This was truly delicious and warming. I woke up the next day wanting it for breakfast.
Brillat Savarin French toast, Italian autumn truffle, honey emulsion
Smoked haddock porridge, oat and coffee crumble, herring roe, herb porridge
The smoked haddock porridge course that followed had me beaming from ear to ear. Having just come back from Betty’s tearooms in York the week before, this delightful little dish was, to me, a thrilling take on Betty’s classic kedgeree, swapping out the almonds and delicate flavours for a more daring twist, with coffee and herring roe. If people consider porridge a strictly breakfast-only food, I’d happily switch dinner for breakfast any day of the week.
Venison, juniper and elderberry jus, celeriac puree, Scottish girolles
Next up, we had venison with celeriac puree. The accompanying sticky and rich juniper and elderberry jus was perfect with the meat. It was lightly spiced and something I’m definitely going to try and recreate. It looks like a small portion, but it was really rich and hit the spot perfectly. Although, I would have personally preferred perhaps a less-sharp root vegetable, as I thought the celeriac slightly dominated my palate.
A palate cleanser of fig leaf ice-cream was served on a stone slab, served to lick off ferociously with your tongue. A small spoon was also placed for the less-adventurous crowd. The earthy overtones cleansed the palate nicely to anticipate the dessert.
Stilton, pear sorbet, rye and nigella seed cracker
The Stilton course was definitely my favourite of the nine, an innovative take on your classic cheese board filler. The pear sorbet lifted the dish, elevating the flavour of the stilton and rye - this was magic in my mouth.
Apple tart, Normandy Crème fraîche, calvados foam
Beautiful plates of delicate sheets of apple, pastry and Normandy Crème fraîche appeared before us. The apple was perfectly spiced, sweet and fragrant. It defeated me, but all was not lost as a companion finished it off.
Jellies as a digestif seem to be all the rage nowadays at most fine-dining establishments, and it was refreshing to see a humble assortment of juniper fudge and black treacle financiers to conclude the experience. Our evening ended with the team serving a choice of fresh mint tea or freshly ground coffee, with the option for an additional digestif and more wine for a nightcap. Gabe’s take on the standard supper club is something exceptional. The location, collaborative and open-kitchen concept, inventiveness, and his personal touch shoots it completely above the bracket to your regular fine-dining experience. It is a must for any food aficionado out there, and to those who want a unique experience. We headed off into the night having felt well looked after, well nourished, and well drunk.
Address: 3 Mare Street, East London, E8 4RP